by Tanya Monteiro on 09/22/2011

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As the flat sale moves forward and I prepare my next steps, finding others who’ve made similar unconventional moves keeps me motivated, some days more than others.

When I moved to Portugal to be near family, the sun and sea, learning to surf was the most liberating activity I’d done in far too long. I sucked at it but absolutely loved every moment in the water, waiting, learning, trying, falling, waiting, learning, trying and falling. Even the black eye I got from the board bouncing back at me somehow was fun. When I lived in Bali for those few months, my then boyfriend had lived his whole life around surf, he still does. The bug got me then, I tried once, we did our lesson out at the back line and I was beyond terrified. That was 1999, I waited till 2008, almost 10 years to make that dream of “learning to surf” become my reality. It’s a constant internal debate I have between doing what I love and doing what I think I need to do. The dynamics are changing, a little each day. Today’s post is a reminder that I will not wait 9 years to make another of my deep desires become my reality, no matter how good or bad I am at it.

How long have you been putting off something you really wanted to do?

“Life is like surfing a wave…you gotta go down so that you can go up…if you mess it up…you gotta stay focus without loosing your energy on unnecessary actions…when you are 100% sure that you are about to breath again…you make your move…appreciating that you are breathing…the only difference is that when you are surfing a wave…going down is a thrill…in life we tend to avoid these situations…but even if we ride the perfect wave…we still gotta stay focus and not scream out loud cause we lose our adrenaline / energy / enthusiasm…like in everyday life…good day to everyone…enjoy :)”

Intentio Surfing Movie Trailer…Surf is a life concept from Eightsmileys on Vimeo.

Spotted on Surfing the world

“If one advances confidently in the direction of his dreams, and endeavors to live the life which he has imagined, he will meet with a success unexpected in common hours” – Henry David Thoreau

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